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Briefly in Borneo:
AFS Sight Inspection
 I
embark on a journey of jet-lag so hard core, it could challenge an
astronaut. Borneo beckons because I’ve never been there. A mere 5
hours to LAX, 12 to Tokyo, 7 to Singapore and 3 to Kota. Mind you this
is just one way not including layover times. Seated in economy class, I
expect my body will dehydrate to a prune, my muscles atrophy, pore’s
clog and I’ll bloat with “jet belly” but it’s ok. Bottom line is, I
love airplanes. The near insanity of this that it’s only a 5 day visit
and I’m spending nearly as much time on land as I will in the air.
The best perk of my job are the site inspections,
that is to witness first hand what my groups will experience if a
destination is new to me. This is far on my globe. Prior to departure,
I surveyed friends asking them,” Where is Borneo?” Only 10% answered
correctly. This time I bring Terry and wonder of his fortitude in tow.
But he proves to be a good aviation warrior.
On our arrival flight in, I see gleaming white
beaches, turquoise reefs and coconut trees that spread out as far as the
eye can see. At the airport, we are greeted by Martin who will oversee
us and answer the 7,000 questions I’ve prepared on this land. It’s
sauna hot. We head out past cocoa and tea plantations for our first
resort stay at Shangri La Tanjung Aru, an oasis of luxury right on the
South China Sea. In the distance are 5 coral islands. A short jetty
ride will deposit you to any one for snorkeling the sea caves and
world-class diving. Further out is Pulau Tiga with its mud volcanoes
where the first Survivor series was shot.
Here we’re spoiled like a couple of pot bellied
pigs with an upgraded suite with fruit and orchids as well as a
beachside massage. I feel like I’ve reached Nirvana with a mantra of
“I’m not worthy” but I revel in all the amenities. It’s pure playtime
with activities provided here. And the spectacular Malaysian buffet
breakfasts should be filmed by the Food Channel.
Kota Kinabalu (aka “KK”) is the capital of Sabah
with 340,000 inhabitants. My expectations of Borneo were of 5’ monitor
lizards and head hunting tribal chiefs, but here I’m greeted with
Starbucks and mega-malls. The city is worn and struggling hard to
develop itself. Established by the British in 1881, it also has a lot
WWII history. The city’s backdrop is the breathtaking 13,600 ft. Mt.
Kinabalu, UNESCO W.H. Site for being the most bio-diverse mountain on
earth. It holds a complete ecosystem and is a botanical paradise.
There’s an astonishing array of rare flora and fauna such as insect
eating plants, funky fungi and raffelsia, the worlds largest flower of
3’ petals. It takes 2 years to bud and lasts just 7 days. The lush
National Park is the size of Singapore. Hillside tribes reside on the
slopes. The mountain is scared to them as they believe it is the
resting place of their ancestors departed spirits.
For free time we tour museums, handicraft markets
and water village. I buy gifts of pearls, organic teas, coffee, batik
and baskets. As Americans, we feel like VIP tourists as most visitors
are from Australia, UK, Japan and Europe. The locals are so respectful
and polite. There are 30 ethnic groups speaking 80 different languages
who live harmoniously together. Many are animists who worship all
living things. The main tribes are the Dusuns with their female
priestesses, the Bajau’s known as the “cowboys of the sea” and the
Murats who live in typical longhouses. They are descendants of the
famed head hunters who once fiercely protected their territories and
decorated their homes with “trophies” that were severed heads of their
invaders. Many here look Polynesian. Bahasa Malay is the main
language, a dialect that sounds to me like they’re speaking in tongues.
Second language is English.
In August I bring 2 groups here. We’ll enter the
interior to discover the essence of Borneo with its virgin rainforests,
lush wetlands and enough wildlife to feel you’ve entered a living zoo.
(See our website to order my itinerary on this eco-adventure.) We’ll
learn of the culture and history but the thrilling part for me will be
seeing the rare species of pigmy elephants, Sumatra rhino, giant crocs,
bearded pigs, gibbons, macaques and omni-present proboscis monkeys (the
one’s with Jimmy Duranti noses.) The highlight will be Sepilok, the
largest orangutan sanctuary where we can get close and personal with
these “wild men of Borneo.”
Evenings by the ocean here provide a surreal
beauty that envelopes one in serenity and it’s totally romantic. I hate
to leave but it’s time to visit another resort I have booked for my
groups. The Shangri La Rasa Ria is a slice of heaven where one can do
nothing or everything. There’s morning yoga, Tai Chi, golf, ATV’s,
horses, parasailing, a huge spa and more. Classes are given in Malay
language, cooking, sarong wrapping, beading, blow pipes and weaving.
But what makes this resort ultra-special is its Nature Reserve. The
hotel helps fund orphaned orangutans here. If the jungle continues to
shrink, these gentile creatures will face extinction in the wild. Dr.
Galdikas of OFI (Orangutan Foundation Int.) grimly predicts, “Unless
extreme action is taken soon, these forests could be one in 5 to 7 years
and the wild orangutan with them.”
We attend a lecture by a ranger to learn about the
“man of the jungle”, world's second largest ape. Genetically they are
96.4% human and are considered the most sentimental creatures on earth.
We are led by trail up mountain slopes to view 7 protected baby
orangutans, most orphaned from illegal logging that destroyed their
homes. Unlike other primates, they prefer playing over fighting.
“Limon” had a tough early life. His mother was killed and eaten by
plantation workers. They kept him as a pet chained to the wall of a
wooden crate for 4 years until Forest Police rescued him. When he
arrived here, he was a sack of bones and dying. For 10 days he refused
to eat until one day, a sweet pineapple changed his life. He devoured
it in entirety and since then, Limon hasn’t stopped eating. Now he’s 5
times heavier and stuffs himself silly. Upon graduation, he will be
released back into the forest. It’s touching moments like these that
stir my passion for travel.
The tiny country of Brunei is a mere 30 minute
flight away and has always been on my “destination dream list.” Now so
near yet no time. I’ve studied this sultanate where 460,000 residents
enjoy the world’s highest per capita income due to off shore oil.
Everything is free for them and the Sultan of Brunei is wealthier than
Bill Gates. There is zero nightlife and alcohol is banned, but I need
this stamped in my passport because it’s there.
I look forward to my return and experiencing the
real mystical Borneo. The best journey is always the one going home.
As I board Singapore Airlines, I feel I’ve gained 6 kilos from all the
seafood I consumed. I sleep like a baby on the long haul home via
Taipei. The miracle of it all is that my checked luggage managed to
follow me 19,000 miles roundtrip and the fact that I still love
airplanes.
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Our suite |
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Greetings! |
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The resort |
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Nature Reserve at the
resort |
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The babies |
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Jungle hike |
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In KK |
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