|
December in Dubai –
Suzy’s Site Inspection 2006 – by Suzy
Davis
My
passion for travel is still a fire deep in my soul that occasionally must be
stirred. I’ve always been drawn to Arabia and set out now on my own desert
fantasy. My mom seems to think my life is one big vacation by leading groups
around the world. In reality it’s been years since I had my own getaway. I
can’t remember the last time I saw something for the first time. Already I miss
my husband, but need this escape to recharge my over stressed batteries. It’s a
deep need to forget myself, to play and to be astonished. No better place than
21st century Dubai which was like landing on another planet.
It’s my first flight on
award winning Emirates Airlines with the world’s fastest growing fleet that now
fly’s 55 countries. Very impressive with in-seat massage system, sandwiches on
demand from the galley and twinkling star’s that sparkle on the ceiling when the
lights are dimmed. EK won the Best Inflight Entertainment Award. I can choose
from 600 movies, 6000 audio tracks and books, 40 games, check email and view the
new “Pilots Camera” where take off’s and landings are seen from a camera mounted
below the aircrafts nose. Coach class can’t get any better than this!
There are 7 emirates on
the Arabian Gulf that are sandwiched between Iran, Qatar, Saudi rand Oman.
What’s an emirate? A kingdom ruled by a Sheik. Dubai became a Sheikdom in
1833, but nomadic tribes had settled here 3,000 years ago. They survived off
the sea in this arid land. Once upon a time, this rich but obscured kingdom
decided to become the world’s premier tourist destination. It expanded at an
alarming rate by adding 500 miles of new waterfront with countless man made
islands. Now it is called the “Las Vegas of the Middle East” with its sun,
sand, sea, snow and sex. It’s also referred to as the “St. Tropez of the Gulf”
or “Monaco of the Desert” because it’s so ultra-chic.
Here tolerance and
hospitality are highly prized virtues. Dubai is a pocket of freedom in Arabia,
like Hong Kong is to China. And a bit of a dichotomy with its Islamic culture
in an environment of Western affluence, a total fusion of East meets West. I
nevertheless packed modestly for this trip with my “covered elbow to knee”
rule. Still at night, there are a plethora of clubs where anything goes.
Dubai’s population is 1.3 million. Only 12% are nationals who can own property
here. All others are foreigners. I witnessed zero poverty and was told that
Sheik Al Maktoun is good to all with free social services. It’s clean and truly
crime free along with year round sunshine.
I do have an agenda on my
“vacation.” I flew with my Uganda group as far as Dubai. They continued on
from here to Entebbe for gorilla trekking. I’ve also arranged site inspections
with suppliers through the Ministery of Tourism. On airport arrival, I was
greeted with my name sign by a chauffer. He transferred me to the deluxe Grand
Hyatt, an oasis of tranquility. There was an ice skating rink to the right of
the lobby. All rooms are Gulf view. Mine overlooked “The Palms”, a spectacular
wonder of fanned out artificial islands that are filled with priceless
residences. This is near “The World” with its 300 manmade islands where one may
purchase a “country.” Plans or no plans, my favored mode of travel is to let
the wind blow me where it may.
My private city tour
revealed a shimmering futuristic skyline. There are unprecedented developments
here with extravagant creations that make Vegas dull in comparison. It seems
every crane in the world is here now. Some hotels are simply indescribable.
Grand boulevards are lined with palm trees. The new city Bur Dubai has the most
prestigious mile on earth now. In contrast, there is old Deira area with
historic architecture in ancient wind-towers, forts, royal palaces and a mosque
on every corner.
 |
 |
 |
|
The Palm |
Burj Al
Arab Hotel is inarguably the most amazing hotel structure on earth |
The World Islands |
My dream has been to visit
the Burj Al Arab, inarguably the most amazing hotel structure on earth. This
masterpiece is shaped like an enormous billowing sail and set on its own
island. It rates “7 stars” with a staff to guest ratio of 5 to 1. Room rates
start from $950 per night and they are booked full through 2007. Tourists are
no longer allowed to visit with the $50 entrance fee. The only chance to enter
is by lunch ($160), high tea ($85) or dinner (if you have to ask, you can’t
afford it.) I decided to break my budget for any option but my concierge was
unable to procure me a reservation on any given day. Mind you I’m only here for
97 hours! So I headed to Jumerirah Beach instead to use my time well.
Traffic is insane as the
the city is growing too fast for it britches due to an influx of 3,000 people
moving here each month. It is expensive considering I paid $4 for my bag of
Cheetos however petrol is as cheap as bottled water in this oil rich region. My
first evening was spent getting lost in the Spice market and worlds largest Gold
Souk that covers a square mile of bling bling. I bought nothing but was dazzled
by the endless glittering gold and diamonds. I returned back to the Hyatt at
2am. The staff had repeatedly assured me that it was completely safe for a lone
woman to wander anytime in Dubai. What a delight.
After a morning swim, I
had some appointments with major tour operators. There was typical Middle
Eastern business protocol of courteous salesmanship and a lot of cardamom
coffees. Later I hailed a taxi to Mall of the Emirates. At 5:37pm, it was the
call for the forth prayer of the day. My devout driver pulls over, exits with
his worn prayer mat and bows down on the street. I soon arrive to a
mega-structure that looked like another city with 460 stores to make me feel
right at home. This is the duty free capital of the world. Shopping here is a
national pastime. I’m a mall rat and this one sparkled with enticements. There
were festive tree’s but no Santa’s as I guess that would be a graven image. It
was packed with people. Men were robed in white kanduras. Women were covered
head to toe in black abayahs, some with their eyes hidden. Their carts were
filled with packages. It always perplexes me. Why do woman here bother to
adorn themselves if no one can see their under attire? I spent an hour stalking
a group of 5 young veiled women for my own sociological study. They hit the top
designer boutiques on the third floor not browsing but spending cash like Paris
Hilton on steroids. They bought Dior, Channel, countless shoes, lingerie and
perfumes that were priceless to me.
 |
There were plenty of venues to entertain
the men in this mall city. It had a spa, skating rink, indoor pool, 15
cinemas and skiing. At the north end, I see what looks to be a mirage.
Ski Dubai is the world’s only indoor snow resort. Try to envision a 25
story mountain with chairlifts and ski chalets on 6 acres under one
roof. There are 5 ski runs including a Black Diamond and bobsled run.
Hidden ceiling machines drop 3’ of snow each day. Full winter gear is
included in the nominal entrance fee. I enter for an hour of sledding
and the snow maze with the children. It was 30° inside and 90º outside,
the only place where one can both water and snow ski within one day.
After dinner and more shopping, I called a taxi. It was midnight.
The next day I woke to rain, an
extremely rare occurrence here. The locals open their windows and dance
in the streets. All traffic jams. My invitation to the Royal Stables
was cancelled. The purebred Arabian horses here are the most prized
and the Dubai Cup is the richest race in the world. |
|
Snow skiing |
On my third day, a
thrilling desert safari was arranged. I headed out of town in a caravan of 12
jeeps. First stop was a place where we rode ATV’s, fed baby camels and saw a
demonstration of falconry. We then headed deep into the desert for an hour of
Dune Bashing. I got the best/worst driver of the 4x4’s names Wajed. He drove
maniacally up and over the steepest dunes like a drunken sailor at high seas.
The scariest part was “sliding” perpendicular down the mountains of sand. We
nearly tipped twice. As I screamed, Wajed chatted on his cell phone with a
friend. We stopped to view a breathtaking sunset over the multi-hued desert-scapes.
Then continued on to an oasis with oryx and camels. We enetered a tented camp
for some real Bedouin culture. The safari price included sand-skiing,
sand-boarding, henna tattoos, camel rides and smoking the “hubbly bubbly
pipes”. I declined the cherry tobacco and dressed up like a veiled Arab woman.
A BBQ buffet was served under the stars as belly dancers performed. It was all
like a tale from “The Thousand and One Nights.”
My last day was spent
sightseeing. For my own farewell dinner, I booked a dhow cruise. These
traditional wooden boats have plied the Gulf waters for centuries of trading.
From the Dubai Creek, they still today export goods to Africa and India. The
music and seafood was excellent with the backdrop of a shimmering illuminated
skyline, far too romantic to do this alone. I felt isolated amongst the group
of tipsy Russians.
Reflecting on a perfect
holiday, I feel more balanced and vow to return to this captivating land of
Sheeba. Dubai has magical affects and a vision that knows no end. I tasted
only an appetizer from its buffet of entertaining delights. I designed some
fabulous itineraries for future groups such as 4 days in Dubai along with 4 days
in Cairo or Istanbul which are only a stones throw away. You too can discover
a place to indulge all your senses. There’s no place like Dubai. On my return,
I will lunch at the Burj Al Arab. I better make my reservation now.
 |
|
 |
 |
|
Conservative enough? |
|
Camel Rides |
Another view of the
Burj |
|
|
